Folks don't like to here this due to the inferences, but here goes.

GENERATOR

I rebuilt my own so I know it will be good for 100k miles or more. The generator will do everything it is supposed to and do it well. The only time I ever changed the charging rate was when I was going to drive more than 100 miles after dark. I did have to change the battery after four years.

GENERATOR CUTOUT

Originals are fine and properly done diode conversions should be fine (I've never tried one). The repros were junk in the 70's and likely the same today. A cutout is LESS than ideal unless you either drive the car very regularly, or keep it on a battery tender when not in use.

For everyone else I'd recommend a voltage regulator. There are two types and I've heard great things about both. The first (Vince's choice) mounts on the inside of the band and is wired into the generator. The second looks like and replaces the cutout. It's not clear to me how this one works, but I've heard nothing but good and intend to try one myself since I just don't get to drive my cars daily at the present time. Both of these allow for a much higher charging rate only when needed similar to an alternator.

ALTERNATOR

Simply not needed for most of us. They have the potential for much greater output which I'll never need. The Generator handles everything nicely even under my current "limited use" conditions. If you start making changes that can all change. For example, many folks have old or chrome repro headlamp reflectors with poor reflectivity. Add this to poor focus and the results are DANGEROUS lights for any serious or rural night driving. Add halogen or seal beam lamps to compensate for the other weaknesses and the current draw goes up considerably. Now you are pushing that old generator. Start adding extra light, air conditioning, etc., and an alternator is a must.

12 VOLT CONVERSION

This is also becoming more common. 12 Volt systems require 1/2 the "conduit" for a specific current draw meaning smaller wires can be used and is less susceptible to poor grounds that are common with partially restored cars. More efficient? yes. Practical advantage over a good restored 6 volt system? No. Again, if you are choosing to load up on things like sound system, air conditioning, etc., you should make the conversion.

DISTRIBUTOR

I'm still not clear why this is such a difficult item for most, but it is. When it is proper all it requires readjusting the points every few thousand miles which takes 2-3 minutes with stock setup. I've found I change the points 5-10k miles. I can't imagine there are NO good replacements available, but it may be the case. There are many that convert to modern points and condensers to get the condensers away from the "heat". The heat is generated by the exhaust manifold. The manifold only gets excessively hot when the timing is too far retarded and can be worse if the fuel mixture is too lean. Even Les Andrews promotes the modernized setup which seems strange to me since he lives in similar climate to me and I've driven long distances at 106-107° without incident. I must add however that I read one of his instructions for timing and the end result would be around 5° retarded which would certainly contribute. Ford offered a heat shield beginning late 1929 that is currently reproduced. It was "for hot climates only" as I'm sure they found many owners needed extra help for reasons I can only speculate.

The electronic conversions are another modern "nicety". They will "ignore" the excessive slop and eccentric cams and/or shafts found in most "rebuilt" distributors. They will provide no improved performance over a good original within the modern operating range (I've only tested to about 3400 rpm). However they can provide an improvement over what is commonly accepted as rebuilt. They will also eliminate the occasional inspection for those that don't wish to lift the distributor cap. However, you should still be adding oil to the distributor bushings so why not a 60 second visual inspection at the same time? I know, it's tough!

WATER PUMP

This is an area that also functioned well but is more difficult to restore with what we have to work with. The packing works fine when shaft to bushing clearances are good and end play is restricted to the .008" limit Ford Specified. Modern packing has been less than ideal but I believe there is some good split ring packing available now. I happen to have a fairly clean engine compartment and want to keep it that way. I don't want ANY dripping if possible. I did machine my original rear bushing to accept two small lip seals and have original packing under the packing nut for backup if the lip seals fail. Necessary? No. Cleaner? Yes. There are some sealed pumps available that folks on the board swear by. They also eliminate the need to control end play making them a very simple "bolt on" that I assume looks the same. Not a bad idea in my opinion.

THERMOSTAT

Here's a fun one. No question this is a technical improvement that should improve wear characteristics by bringing everything up to optimal temperatures. Original engines were designed to operate at an average of 170° and got a bit sloppy from wear in the cylinder bores between 60k and 70k miles while still having good bearings at the bottom end. You may be able to improve on that some, but most don't get close. Most people add the thermostat merely to slow the water flow because of poor repro radiators. I don't know if anyone builds a core today with near the capacity of originals so your margin of error will likely be reduced and if you get a bad one you will have to redesign the system somewhat. I can't believe there is nothing good enough though.

CONCLUSION

This is a sampling of common modifications and there are many more. Are any of them necessary or safer? Not in my opinion. I do favor seals in places where minor leaks were originally considered acceptable. They never bothered me with the old "driver" that got parked outside and driven daily. My feelings are different with a clean restoration and a garage floor I prefer to keep fairly clean. Necessary? Not at all. Simply MY choice and I make no apologies for it.

Interest in alterations and individualizing automobiles is as old as automobiles themselves and there is nothing wrong with that. If I wanted my "A" painted pink you can bet your life I would do it! I do however resist alterations done under the false premise of "need" or "improvement" when clearly untrue. There is also nothing wrong with expediency and side-stepping a problem instead of solving it and understanding the reasons for it. I do however think it a shame to teach novices and others that these are THE solutions simply to approximate the original quality inherent in the design of the car.

Do what you really want and feel good about it because you're the one that needs to be happy. Doing anything else is foolish at best and I'd lean towards calling it stupid to do otherwise. Just don't do it to please others if it conflicts with your own desires.